First the realisation dawns, then the determination strengthens. Finally, plans are made.
The Pilgrimage
Contemplations: Waiting for the flight out
The 5 th pillar of upon which Islam is founded. The greatest journey on Earth: a gathering together of approximately 3 million people from all over the world. You name the country; they’re there. All gathered in one place for one reason: the Creator of Creation. Allah, Transcendent is He, has ordained for us as a debt that we owe Him this very journey once in our lifetimes if we are able to physically and financially. Despite the fact that, honestly speaking, I had the financial and physical ability to carry out the Hajj for many a year before 2005, the reality of this debt never really occurred to me. The thing of it is that I didn’t know a single person in my own family who had performed the pilgrimage before old age and so obviously Hajj at an early age is not really one of those things that are pushed forward as a task to be carried out in the family circles that I move in. After all, it is not as important as studying for a degree, finding a job, establishing a career, making lots of money and chasing worldly things. Yes, you leave Hajj till you’re well old, can barely walk and have earned sins for the past thirty years that you could have gone on Hajj and didn’t!!!
Aware of the fact or not, it is still my own responsibility and no doubt I am sinful for those few years that I did not perform Hajj. Allah guides whom He wills and whenever He wants to call a slave of His, there is nothing that can stop one from travelling to the House of Allah. I actually planned to go on Hajj in 2004 and I had submitted my visa application with my group leader then and there and plans were being made. Unfortunately, my dear grandmother had a near fatal heart attack in Pakistan and alternative plans were quickly made to go visit her in Pakistan. This visit coincided with the Hajj season, so I had to postpone till the following year. Consequently, my friend’s mother told me that that is a Hajj itself, referring to the rights of people especially in this circumstance of visiting my sick grandmother. My intention or niyyah, however, was absolutely and firmly made and Allah informed me later in 2004 that my intention for Hajj has been accepted.
So, then came the season for Hajj 2005. After a bit of unnecessary wrangling with a relative about certain finances, I managed to confirm prices and a package and again I informed the same group leader of my wish to go on Hajj with him and to take him as my Imam for Hajj. The most time-consuming procedure in booking the Hajj was seemingly just the acquisition of a Hajj visa from the government of “Saudi” Arabia. However, after that was all done and confirmed the group had a meeting on the Sunday preceding our departure date. A seminar designed to introduce group members to each other, Qari Muhammad Tayyib took us through the first thing that we would be doing when we got to Al Makkah Al Mukarramah: the Umrah, along with a few organisational details.
He warned us that as soon as we leave Manchester Airport we should be prepared to encounter difficulties. Patience was emphasised again and again, and now I know why. All along the journey and at almost every juncture there is so much waiting to do. For even as trivial a matter as waiting for a bus, it could and does take up to 3 hours, maybe more. Your sleep patterns are so disrupted and you get so exhausted that you end up literally lying down on the floor beneath and getting some shut-eye. I.e. any chance you get, sleep. This is why a very informed brother of mine strongly advised me to take a blanket with me wherever I went. I now know why.
Making Tracks
The flight was a very early one, and my stepfather drove me to the airport. At the departure terminal I obtained my tickets and passport from Qari Sahib and went to proceed to checking in counters. My aunt and uncle were also there to see me off, which was quite a pleasant surprise seeing that it was around fajr time. Bidding farewell, I went inside to the departure lounge, prayed fajr and waited to board the flight. Behind me on the plane there were a couple of Pakistani uncles who were talking quite loudly and talking about very worldly matters. The older uncle next to me had a bit of a go at them, telling them that we have started a Hajj journey, to stop talking about worldly matters and that theirs are the only voices on the plane that we can hear! He did quite a good job. We were to stop at Sanaa International Airport in Yemen before proceeding to Jeddah to enter the state of ihram. Unfortunately, contrary to what we were expecting the officials would not let us off the plane to enter ihram. There was a lot of confusion for a while until we eventually managed to negotiate half an hour off the plane to go change into our ihram clothes. They did not, however, allow the women to get off who had to then change whilst still aboard the aircraft. When the flight took off again, I personally prayed the 2 rak’aas of salatul ihram, niyyah and the labbaik three times in-flight. When you are in ihram, I would recommend that you keep a tasbih with you always, intend to carry out one round of the labbaik and then keep repeating the process. This way one says the talbiyah almost constantly and thereby adhering to the spirit of the Prophet’s advice (sallallahu alaihi wa aalihi wa sallam) that the best Hajj is that in which the most qurbani is given and the most talbiyah is read. Trust me, it works!!!
Makkah
When we landed at Jeddah, we proceeded to the arrivals lounge and waited for our group’s turn to be processed by immigration. It took shorter than I expected, but the time that it took for us to get our luggage and board our buses to Jeddah “took the mick”. Everything seemed so disorganised (although it wasn’t), we waited for so long, waiting for one official to stamp something, another one to check something else, etc, etc; there was a lot of confusion At this juncture there was a lot of waiting and getting tired! As soon as the bus left the airport, however, I fell asleep straight away and it wasn’t until we arrived at our group liaison officer’s building in Makkah that I woke up (the road journey between Jeddah and Makkah is approximately 1 hour). We nearly got to our hotel when the adhan for fajr was heard. What happens on Hajj in Makkah, because there are so many people who flock to the Haram Shareef, is that people go there at least an hour earlier to get a place. We waited there for probably 2 hours, however we only found out later what was actually transpiring!!! This tends to happen a lot on Hajj, that you are waiting thinking that there is a problem yet it is actually a normal process going on. When the prayer was finished, I saw a huge crowd emerge from around the corner of a building, worshippers coming back from the Haram. Dear Reader, just going to pray your five salahs in Al Masjid Al Haram during the Hajj days is a breathtaking experience in itself, as I was to find out.
Once we stopped near our hotel (not as near as we would have hoped considering the fact that we had to carry our own luggage), we took our luggage from the coach and proceeded to the hotel. Amidst the confusion, the hustle and bustle and the crowds I lost sight of which direction Qari Sahib and the rest went in. Alhamdulillah, I knew the name of our hotel and one of my group colleagues came back toward me and led me to the hotel. Exhausted, we checked in, went to our rooms and collapsed on our beds for a few hours of rest. A few hours of sleep/rest is highly recommended since one has to perform the Umrah now. It wasn’t until about 10/11 am that we woke up and made our way downstairs to meet Qari Sahib who was to take us to perform Umrah. Also, if you are taking a significant amount of money with you (a few hundred pounds or more), it is highly urged to deposit the money with the hotel manager and then you can subsequently withdraw the amounts you need, which is what we did.
Now, there are three types of Hajj: Ifrad, Tamattu and Qiran:
Alhamdulillah, He gave us all an opportunity to perform Hajj Qiran, since the time between us arriving in Makkah and the days of Hajj were only a few. I am sure that if the time was longer I may not have been able to bear the ihram restrictions but Allah knows best. The separate intentions for the different types of Hajj are said in the heart and on the tongue at the time that you enter ihram whether it is in Yemen or before that in Manchester or anywhere else. I would like to recommend strongly to the Reader that you choose to perform Hajj-e-Qiran. You will see later why!
Al Masjid Al Haram Ash Shareef
Last time I came to Makkah on my Umrah in 2003, the first time that I saw the Ka’ba has been detailed in my ‘Account of an Umrah’; a truly profound experience. For whatever reason, this time I saw the Ka’ba it did not have any effect on me. I don’t know why and I am slightly baffled even today as to the reason. What I can say is that the first time you ever see the Ka’ba is extremely significant and that you approach that moment with care, as I have described in the other article.
We performed Umrah, which I do not aim to describe, after which we went back to our hotel room. There were only a few days left until Hajj. Most of your time in Makkah is just spent on worshipping, eating and sleeping. I went to visit a distant relative in the suburbs of the Haram, but other than that not much happened.
Mina
On the day before our journey to Mina, the group had a meeting, a Mehfil. We were updated on arrangements, organisational details and the rites of Hajj themselves. Now the Sunnah method is to leave for Mina after fajr of 8 Dhul Hijjah. However, as Qari Sahib explained to us, it is physically impossible for 3 million people to do exactly that all at once. Therefore, we left well after isha on that day and arrived in our camp at about 2 am on the 8 th of Dhul Hijjah. Mina itself is like a temporary city and it is run like that. All facilities are there, for food communications, transportation. There are information points, “Lost Hajji” centres; despite the fact that I justifiably loathe the Saudi government, their employees the civil services are very well organised. All you have to do on the 8 th is to literally physically be in Mina from fajr of that day to fajr of the following.
Surrounded by mountains, I climbed up the side of a huge hill to read some Qur’an and do some dhikr. I think that this is absolutely necessary, since most of the Hajjis, despite the fact that they are in the state of ihram with the purpose of being in a perpetual state of dhikr of Allah, were mostly acting like they were on the high streets of Rochdale. I am absolutely appalled at the state of many brothers and sisters who continue to talk about mundane and worldly things EVEN whilst on Hajj. Also, the prohibitions of ihram itself were given dangerously little importance. Just to give a few examples of the breaches of the state of ihram that I witnessed among many Hajjis:
Arafah
After salatul fajr of the 9 th, we gathered and took what we needed for Arafah and Muzdalifah outside our tents awaiting our buses. I tell you, it took ages, sweat and adrenaline to get our buses to stop for us. Qari Sahib admitted that, for some reason, it was not as hard the previous year. Nevertheless, we boarded our coaches and departed for the short journey to Arafah. I have to stress that if one wants to walk it to Arafah, I would recommend it. I always stuck with the group as it was my first time and I didn’t want to get lost, but after Hajj I knew of a few people who did walk it. I suppose it is more fulfilling. Anyway, we stopped out side our tent area in Arafah and disembarked our bus and went to our tent. The tents are cloth-based and not like the sophisticated ones of developed Mina.
Feelings and thoughts on Arafah:
For a few hours, the Plain of Arafah becomes a city. Being on this Plain on this date between fajr and salatul maghrib is actually the Hajj itself. 3 million people from all over the world (you name the country, they’re there) gathered in one place on Earth at the same time for a few hours on the same day for the same reason. Just this reality is profoundly powerful. When you enter the Plain, I swear by Allah the feeling that pervades oneself is that we have presented ourselves for the Reckoning: it is a feeling like nothing other, like a preview of the Gathering on the Day of Judgement. I believe that since we are inextricably linked to the rest of Creation, that we can somehow spiritually sense the Day of Judgement and the events that take place then, even though it is in the future. The echoes of the Rising resonate throughout space and time, just like the echoes of our own death haunt us constantly, even though we haven’t met death yet. These echoes resonate louder when we present ourselves on Arafah on 9 Dhul Hijjah. If you do want to experience the Day of Judgement before it happens, you can get a very small taste, but a taste nonetheless, on the Plain of Arafah, on the Hajj. Being on Arafah on that Day was an immense, incredible, profound, beautiful and humbling experience.
Muzdalifah
When the beautiful sunset waned, we waited about 2 hours for our bus and the half an hour locked up at the bus stop that looked like a holding pen. It is recommended to walk straight to Muzdalifah; it’s not that far. However, due to the importance of staying together with the group and the fact that you get easily separated, you should travel together. Some people, however, are confident enough to walk from place to place knowing the locations of their tents and for these people it’s very possible to do so. For most other people and especially for first-timers I would insist that they keep with the group.
Muzdalifah is an open Plain, right next to Mina. You spend the night, and a most blessed night, here until after salatul fajr, on the sandy, dusty ground with nothing but a few foodstuffs, drinks and a blanket. GO TO THE TOILET and empty your system out BEFORE you go to Muzdalifah. The queues for the toilets are Muzdalifah are loooooooong. If you have to go, you will be waiting for about twenty minutes for your go; additionally there are wudu facilities. When Hajj falls in the winter times, it is very cold at night. Bearing in mind you are wearing ihram clothes, you need to take a very good and warm blanket or sleeping bag. Here you have to collect the pebbles to throw at the devils for the next three days. Remember that after you have collected your pebbles, take a few extra since you might miss hitting one at the devils or a few might fall out of your hand. Both scenarios are common occurrences.
MOST IMPORTANT: Buy a facemask (you can get them from chemists everywhere in Makkah) before leaving for Arafah and use it all the way back to Mina. If you don’t, you will regret it and end up with one of the worst sore throats in history due to the sand and dust flying around in the open air that you are in. People are coughing, spitting and blowing their noses everywhere. There’s pollution by the ton and dust by the ton. It is, therefore, a very good investment.
What needs to be taken when journeying between the Holy sites
NOTE WELL:
It is extremely important on the actual journeys of Hajj between Makkah, Mina, Muzdalifah and Arafah (referred to in English as ‘Arafat’) to ONLY TAKE THE ESSENTIALS. Just to give a few pointers:
From Makkah to Mina
From Mina to Arafah
From Arafah to Muzdalifah and from Muzdalifah back to Mina
Back to Mina and 10 Dhul Hijjah
You have to be rested and on your toes for this day, it is the most tiring, testing and exhausting day. You have to do much on this day. With the help of Allah and the strength given by Him, however, it does get done!
The distance from Muzdalifah to Mina is negligible since due to the prevalent number of Hajjis in these times, the borders of Mina have had to be extended coinciding and even extending across those of Muzdalifah. Back at Mina, we had a few short hours of rest and sleep. Qari Sahib said that we need to wait at least 2 hours after midday to avoid the fatal crowds at the Jamaraat (devils). I have heard many horrific tales of what has happened at that place in the past. Just the simple and blaringly obvious fact that 3 million people are to converge at that small place on earth this day could be terrifying. A brother that went on Hajj a few years ago told me that he actually fell down and miraculously survived since no one really ever lives once you stumble down in those crowds. So, I had to prepare myself mentally in order to encounter the unexpected when we eventually arrived there.
Our group then assembled at about 1:30pm to 2pm and we began to walk the 1½-mile route to the Jamaraat. We had a big flag that the lead uncle grabbed hold of (since he was taller than Qari Sahib) to take us so that we all do not get lost and can see each other. We were practically on the other side of Mina to the Jamaraat so we had to walk quite a long way. The government has built huge tunnels in the mountains as part of the routes of Mina. We walked a very long way and as we neared the site, the crowds started to increase and the space in which one could move around drastically started to decrease. It is quite awkward to describe the way in which we managed to get to the bridge and go up it, but if you go on Hajj you will see. There are 2 levels on which you can pelt the pillars symbolising the devils: the ground floor, in which stone pillars of the bridge itself surround you, and the actual bridge floor upstairs. Anyway, once we climbed the Jamaraat Bridge surprisingly the crowds started to thin out and I managed to go right up to the big shaytaan and peacefully, one by one pelt it and then walk on further and regroup. It took no less than 5 minutes. I couldn’t believe it, I was expecting screams, shouting, injured people and what have you! Alhamdulillah.
The group now had two choices: either to go on to Makkah or return to Mina. Qari Sahib, a few others and I decided to walk on to Makkah and the Haram area to our hotel. The route is as clearly marked out as the sky is blue so don’t worry about how to get to Makkah. We were hoping to walk it all the way but then halfway there we got a taxi. Getting a taxi there, however, is not as simple as it sounds. You have to really haggle with the taxi driver and then you have to worry about not having to hang off the boot ledge or be thrown on the roof of a barely stable-framed wagon. Once we got to our hotel, I immediately went and lay down to await news of the completion of my own qurbani. After receiving notification of the aforesaid, I proceeded along with an uncle companion to get our heads shaved and therefore leave the state of ihram. Once we did that, we showered and changed clothes.
The next thing that we had to do was the Tawaf-e-Zyaarah, which was to be done between now and the end of 12 Dhul Hijjah. Again, think about it Reader: 3 million people converging on one mosque on the same day. You can forget about the ground floor mataf area; the whole courtyard is just absolutely packed as is the bigger circuit of the second floor. I ended up doing the tawaf on the third floor and even that barely at a walking pace due to the heavy crowds. I have to say that even though the circuits on the second and third floors turn into kilometres worth of walking, they do somehow get done. Even the most elderly of people, when they arrive at Allah’s House you can witness it yourself that Allah gives them strength for the purposes that they are there for. This tawaf will most likely take you through at least 1 salah’s time, which is of course no problem; doing 2-hour long tawafs on Hajj is a normal thing!!! The reason why I earlier suggested for you to perform Hajj-e-Qiran out of all the three types of Hajj is that once you perform the tawaf of 10 Dhul Hijjah, you have very little time to perform a sa’ee and also the fact that the crowds increase in the Haram as the day goes by. With Qiran, you can perform the sa’ee after the tawaf preceding the 8 th thereby getting it out of the way and only having to worry about the performance of 1 tawaf on the 10 th. However, it does get done but if you perform Qiran, you get extra reward and elevation in your spiritual station and also you avoid many obstacles on the 10 th.
The last thing that we needed to do was to be back in Mina before the night ends. After Tawaf, we ate and those of us who had waited with Qari Sahib to go together with him back to Mina gathered and set off in a taxi. I, unfortunately, got crammed into the back of the wagon and I tell you with the windows (or windowless doors I should say!) open letting in a world of pollution from 3 or 4 litre-engine American cars and in a crouched position due to lack of space in the back of a 30 year old Chevrolet Suburban it’s is a trying experience. The main parts of Hajj were now over; however, the trials were still to come for 2 more days.
11 & 12 Dhul Hijjah
The second day we went to stone, this time we stoned all three devils which is the requirement for all the Hajj pelting days bar the 10 th. Again, Qari Sahib took us at the appropriate time and although there was a bit of push and shove (to the say the least) I managed to perform my rite and regroup for the return journey to the camp. You should know that it took us about 3 ½ hours walk from our camp to the Jamaraat and back. This is why, elderly, people especially are advised not to go. Again, I must say (as Qari Sahib kept emphasising) that women SHOULD NOT go and should depute. Also, if you have decided to bring children to Hajj, it is absolutely out of the question that they be taken. It can be a very violent scene at the Jamaraat as you are constantly getting crushed. In fact this can really be said about the whole of the visit to Makkah, especially at the Haram.
On the third day, we made a mistake that nearly cost us our lives. Every horror story I’ve heard about that place, I witnessed myself for myself that day. All I want to say really at this juncture is to listen and act on the advice of your group leader which is deliberately cautious and rightly so: Always go with your group leader to the Jamaraat. The pelting is a Sunnah but there is no need to risk your life for it so if you do get into a difficult situation, remember that Allah is merciful and does not want hardship and risk for you. We got so confident on the first two days, like: “that was a piece of cake! What’s the big deal?” Always, always when you go to pelt on whatever day go well after the main rush hours i.e. 12pm to 2pm. Talk to your group leader for elaboration on this issue. I got separated (which happened frequently) from my two companions and decided to proceed onto Makkah. About half an hour later, torrential rain turned Makkah’s roads instantly into a series of fast flowing rivers. I waited for a long time on a raised platform outside a shop and waited for the rain to subside and the water to drain away. Thereafter, it was absolute chaos in Makkah after it had been thoroughly flooded as all the Hajjis were returning at that very time from Mina. I managed to wade myself through the thick crowds to my hotel, showered, changed clothes and collapsed on my bed.
After Hajj
After Allah had provided for me, given me an opportunity and given me enough iman to recognise the right He had over me, I had completed the obligation upon me to make pilgrimage to Makkah. I can, however, say that although the rites of Hajj were over, for me Hajj still had a significant part of it that was still to be accomplished. The Prophet (sallallahu alaihi wa aalihi wa sallam) has said in a tradition related by Ibn Adi that “He who has performed Hajj and did not visit me was unkind to me.” Despite the fact that it is unlawful to bring any sort of harm whatsoever to Allah’s Beloved (sallallahu alaihi wa aalihi wa sallam) anyway, who would want to earn Allah’s Divine Wrath knowing that the Prophet (sallallahu alaihi wa aalihi wa sallam) is exactly that: the most beloved of creations to the Lord. Verily, we only have a right to recite the du’aa: “Allah, accept our Hajj” after we have presented ourselves as humble servants and subjects in the court of Sayidinna Muhammad al-Mustafa (sallallahu alaihi wa aalihi wa sallam).
I do not want to really go into length as to what I did every day after 12 Dhul Hijjah in Makkah as it would take up too much writing space and is really, I feel, for some other time if at all. Suffice it to say as I have said earlier as well the bulk of your time is spent worshipping, eating and sleeping. Remember, your sleep patterns get so disrupted and you become so exhausted that you literally take advantage of every opportunity for some shut-eye.
Zam Zam
This very brief but special topic deserves a heading on its own. I am absolutely convinced that our Allah is sending Zam Zam water to the Haram directly from Paradise; I have absolutely no doubt in my mind about this. There are a few reasons and personal observations for this:
Encounters and Observations
Now that I have taken you, the Reader, through my journey of Hajj (which is no holiday I would like to add before I forget!) I want to share with you some of my thoughts on the conditions that I encountered. The Hajj is for, ideally, the time of youth. I will admit to you that I, as a 22-year old young man (albeit not that fit!!!) found it very hard, so what about the elderly? I know the elderly brothers and sisters in our group found it quite testing, to say the least. I can categorically say, as I have been saying to everyone on my return, that a person who has the financial and physical opportunity to perform Hajj and deliberately leaves it off until old age is committing an act of sheer and utter stupidity. Unexpected and annoying things are guaranteed to happen and you run into problems on an hourly basis; one must have the physical and mental stamina to bear the hardships that one faces and to get used to them! Children should not even go to Hajj in the first place, I tell you, and in fact I saw very few children there because in the huge crowds it is very difficult to take care of children. For example, you could be in the middle of salah in the rows on a street outside the Masjid-e-Haram, your child wants to go to the toilet: you cannot go anywhere so what are you going to do?
A further point I want to state is this: Due to the stated fact that one regularly encounters problems (mushkilaat), I believe that even if one wanted to stay in a 5 star hotel and had the money to do so, I say do it. The reason is that in doing so, you are reducing problems and this has nothing to do with the hardships of the actual Hajj itself. However you go to Hajj, whether on foot or by first class PIA, mark my words the trials and tests of Hajj are all one and the same. Also, one needs to be very careful as to what Hajj programme one goes with. If you can get a well-organised and efficient group then you should pay extra because the smallest things mean a world’s full of difference when you get there. Even as little as whether you have connecting flights or not (which is much better) or the question of whether your coach will stop right in front of your hotel!! A Hajji companion of mine really found the sharing of rooms difficult due to the almost total lack of privacy. If you end up with the right people, it could be a blissful journey. If not, then it may become a nightmare although this being very rare. I can categorically say, however, that solely due to the infinite mercy of my Allah, Most Beautiful and Most High that all my roommates in Makkah and Madinah were absolute stars! However you arrange your Hajj in this day and age, though, it is very difficult to perform the Hajj that you want to perform, simply because of the huge crowds; sadly, many sunnahs are left out.
Sentiments
There is a well known saying that is drawn from at least one Hadith that “people deserve the leaders they get.” Next time someone asks me about the current global state of the Muslims and “why are we in such a terrible state?” I am going to tell them: Go to Hajj and see for yourself. We are in such a terrible condition; I cannot begin to think about where to begin and where to finish; the Muslims are dead, without life and spirit! I don’t want to write an additional section-piece on this topic, however, but I do want to share with you something that would give you my genuine and heartfelt feelings at those very particular points on my journey as I was encountering the situations and observing my brothers and sisters. I took many notes on Hajj and I am going to below reproduce, point by point, each bullet point as I wrote it down in my notebook:
Final Words
I want to thank Allah that He, Almighty has made Hajj an obligation upon us because the thing of it is that the things that you do on Hajj need to be experienced by every human. Hajj, along with the other pillars of Islam, is widely and dangerously ignored by many, many Muslims these days and we must develop our relationships with these Fara’id. Remember, our worship is just a means to an end, that end being closeness to Allah, Azza wa Jall. If we can figure out who Allah actually is, then we will automatically appreciate the rights that He has over us and we would fulfil them.
In the end, for me the essence of Hajj is summarised by our spiritual mother, Hadhrat Sayyida Rabia al-Basri (may Allah sanctify her secret) when she has said:
“I see only bricks and a house of stone. It is only You, O Allah that I desire.”
Essential advice on what to take and what to do